Warp and Weft : How to choose weaving yarns

Quick Weaving Yarn Guide

Pick warp in seconds. Have fun with weft. Shop the fibres we teach with.

Warp (choose this)

  • Strong (doesn’t snap/break on a firm tug)
  • Smooth/low-texture (glides through heddles/reed)
  • Low stretch (stays even under tension)

Weft (where you play)

  • Textures/slubs/bouclé are welcome
  • Match size to sett for balanced cloth
  • Blend for drape (garments) or durability (towels/rugs)

Quick picks we use in class

4/8 & 2/8 Cotton, Gist Yarn Mallo — everyday warp, soft hand
  • Warp? Yes — strong, low stretch. Great for linens, scarves, rugs and sampling.
  • Weft? Yes — mixes well with wool/linen for drape or strength.
  • Starting sett: 2/8 cotton ≈ WPI 20–22 → EPI 10–11 (plain weave).
  • Care: hand or machine-washable, air or tumble dry.
Cottolin, Linen & Gist Yarn Duet — crisp, very strong
  • Warp? Excellent — stable under tension; softens with wear.
  • Weft? Adds crisp body; blend with cotton for towels/napkins.
  • Starting sett: fine linens ≈ WPI 24–28 → EPI 12–14 (plain weave).
  • Tip: wet-finish to relax fibres and improve drape.
Harrisville Wool & Gist Yarn Ode — warm, forgiving, textural
  • Warp? Use smoother, firmly plied wools (snap test first).
  • Weft? Any texture works — great for rugs/tapestry, scarves, blankets.
  • Starting sett: light wool ≈ WPI 14–18 → EPI 7–9 (plain weave).
  • Avoid big loops/slubs for warp — better as weft.

Snap test

Cut 10″ of thread. Tug firmly about 6″ apart. If it doesn’t break, it’s likely warp-worthy. Don’t try to break it—just snap it a few times to test strength. If it’s weak or very elastic → use as weft.

WPI → EPI (starting sett)

Plain weave EPI ≈ WPI × 0.5
Twill EPI ≈ WPI × 0.7

How to use it

  1. Wraps Per Inch (WPI): Wrap yarn snug (not tight) around a ruler for 1″ and count wraps.
  2. Starting EPI: Use EPI ≈ WPI × 0.5 (plain weave). For twill, use × 0.7.
  3. Rigid heddle: Pick the nearest reed size (7.5, 8, 10, 12, 12.5, 15 dent). Double-slot if needed.
    4. Remember that beat, twist, and finishing change the “right” sett.
Example A — 4/8 cotton (≈ 20–24 WPI)
Plain weave: 10–14 EPI • RH: 10–12.5 dent (single)
Example B — 2/8 cotton (≈ 30-40 WPI)
Plain weave: 15–20 EPI • RH: 10 dent double (≈20), or 12 dent with some doubles
Example C — 2/12 linen (≈ 24–36 WPI)
Twill: 16-25 EPI • RH: 8 dent double for 16

Cotton

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4/8 Cotton Weaving Yarn 4/8 Cotton Weaving YarnMaurice Brassardfrom $12.80 Seine Twine Cotton Rug & Tapestry Warp Yarn Seine Twine Cotton Rug & Tapestry Warp YarnMaurice Brassardfrom $12.00 8/8 Cotton Weaving Yarn 8/8 Cotton Weaving YarnMaurice Brassardfrom $20.00 Linen-Cotton Weaving Yarn Linen-Cotton Weaving YarnMaurice Brassard$20.00 16/8 Cotton Weaving Yarn - Mop Weight 16/8 Cotton Weaving Yarn - Mop WeightMaurice Brassardfrom $20.00

Linen & Hemp

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Linen-Cotton Weaving Yarn Linen-Cotton Weaving YarnMaurice Brassard$20.00 Gist Yarn Duet - Cotton Linen Blend Gist Yarn Duet - Cotton Linen BlendGist$38.80 2/8 Cottolin Weaving Yarn 2/8 Cottolin Weaving YarnMaurice Brassardfrom $16.00 2/12 & 4/12 Linen Rug & Tapestry Warp Yarn 2/12 & 4/12 Linen Rug & Tapestry Warp YarnMaurice Brassardfrom $12.00 2/9 French Linen Weaving Yarn 2/9 French Linen Weaving YarnMaurice Brassard$26.00

Wool

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Harrisville Highland Wool Yarn Harrisville Highland Wool YarnHarrisvillefrom $35.80 Harrisville Shetland Wool Yarn Harrisville Shetland Wool YarnHarrisvillefrom $37.80 Wool Tapestry Fibre Packs Wool Tapestry Fibre PacksLoom Studiofrom $15.00 Gist Yarn Ode - Alpaca Wool Gist Yarn Ode - Alpaca WoolGist$76.00